Reflections on Loch Shiel

Friday 24th / Saturday 25th June 2011

Rather uncharacteristically we set off on the water without any breakfast! The only food we had left was chicken super noodles or baked beans and macaroni cheese and we just couldn't face it.

We made it back to Glenfinnan soon after 10am and after informing the hotel that we were back and wouldn't be requiring the services of Search and Rescue, we made a beeline to the local buttie stop, The Railway Car.
This is a slightly surreal little diner housed in an old train carriage next to Glenfinnan station platform. As we arrived, an old steam train quietly puffed over the viaduct and stopped at the station.

We had a monster breakfast sandwich each (which involved a certain amount of sweet talking the chef, as technically we were half an hour too late for the breakfast menu). We just got our order placed in time, before a deluge of people arrived off the steam train.
Quite a lot of the passengers were dressed in Harry Potter outfits (and some dressed like their parents weren't very imaginative at fancy dress so just wrapped a bed sheet round them). The reason being that the viaduct at the head of Loch Shiel is the one that the Hogwarts Express crosses. I was a bit disappointed not to see any flying cars or dementors swooping around but I suppose you can't have everything.

After several days in the wilds, not having to bother with other people, we were both a bit overwhelmed by all the people, who all seemed to be staring at us (although in hindsight I think it may have been breakfast envy). This became worse when we popped into Morrisons in Fort William to get some much needed exfoliation and moisturising stuff.

We arrived at our hotel in Dumfries and caught up on 5 days worth of hot showers, hair washing and general pampering then hot footed it to the bar and restaurant.

We slept fairly well in a bed that was, predictably, too soft. I'm writing this on our way down the M6 back home.

It seems like an age, and a whole world away since we were camping out on the loch shore.
A lot of the things that I though would be difficult about wild camping have actually been surprisingly easy. Not having a bathroom is not a problem when there's no one to see you having a wash, and even having to dig a hole to have a poo in wasn't too bad (apart from the simultaneous midge attacks).
The actual canoeing was the hard bit. We were completely at the mercy of the wind strength and direction, and were fortunate that it decided to behave itself in the end.

There are a few things we'll do differently next time, some things we'll leave at home, and some that we'll make sure we don't forget. But on the whole the trip went pretty well for our first wild canoe camping trip.
We're both looking forward to getting back to our own home comforts though.

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Location:Scotland

The Met Office got it right!

Thursday 23rd June 2011

We got up at 5am today! Shocking I know, especially for two people on holiday who are rather partial to lie ins at the best of times. The reason being that, according to The Met Office, between 3am and 6am there was to be hardly any wind, and after yesterday's experience that could only be a good thing.

When the alarm went off, Claire caved in first and went outside to check the wind and wave conditions. She returned a short while later, reporting that it was perfect. So we packed up, had some proper scots porridge made with peat stained water out of the spring, and off we went.

And yes, the weather was, for once, perfect. The wind had dropped to a mere breeze, and had changed direction so it was behind us. We made amazingly fast progress, and by 10.30 had made it almost back to Glenfinnan. The same journey coming the other way into the wind had taken at least twice as long. it was so easy going that I had a go at sitting at the back of the boat and doing the steering, which was surprisingly disaster free.

We'd planned to stop on a particular beach about an hours paddle from Glenfinnan, to camp overnight.
This beach is ideal in many ways. It's just the right size, has a flat area for the tent, some trees for shelter, plenty of driftwood for a camp fire, a small spring for drinking water, and a bigger stream with a bath formation in the rocks for washing in.
So despite the fact that we were here far too early, we're sticking with the plan and staying overnight, as we've got to stay somewhere anyway.

Whilst here, and having a bit of time on my hands, it has become apparent to me that we have been a bit slow on the uptake this week.
For example, we've both spent the whole week moaning about bad backs from sitting on the ground. We've both been dying for a backrest. Today it occurred to me that an upside down canoe would be ideal, and we have spent the last few hours sitting in relative comfort leaning on the boat.
Secondly, about half way through the trip we realised that we were going to have to ration the teabags. This is bad enough in itself, but even worse in this case because we'd actually bought more whilst killing time at Loch Lomond, but decided during the food audit we could manage without them and left them in the car! It has taken us until today, when we were down to our last 4 teabags to think of having slightly weaker tea by sharing a teabag instead of having one each.

Tomorrow night we're booked into a hotel in Dumfries. We're both looking forward to it immensely. We've enjoyed our wild canoe camping trip a lot (most of the time), but are both feeling achey and, to name just a few, are looking forward to a hot shower, chairs, food that requires a proper kitchen to cook and a well earned drink in the bar.

Of course, we're not looking forward to the fact that tomorrow is technically the start of the journey south to home.

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Location:Loch Shiel

Iceberg, dead ahead

Wednesday 22nd June 2011

The rain had stopped by the time we woke up, and we managed to get everything packed up while it was only slightly damp.

I was rather disappointed to have my morning toilet upset by a swarm of midges in all the wrong places, so much so that I had to abort!

The wind was still strong, and more to the point, against us, and it was with some trepidation that we set off across the loch.
We were heading back to Glenfinnan where we'd left the car, and knew that all the nicest picnic/camping spots were on the opposite bank, so we headed straight for the opposite shore.

It wasn't raining but the wind was the worst of the trip, and I think probably the worst in my limited canoeing experience.
I sit in front of Claire in the canoe, which means that I see all the scary things up ahead first, and closer up. It's a bit like being Kate Winslet on the Titanic, but less cheesy and much more scary.
Anyway, we were really struggling to make any progress whatsoever. Not only that, but the waves were so big that some of them were coming in the boat.

It took us over an hour to reach the opposite shore (a journey that would have taken us no more than 30 minutes in normal conditions), and I was terrified for almost the whole time. We couldn't turn the boat round for fear of capsizing, although I was in fear of capsizing most of the time anyway.
We couldn't even have a proper domestic about it because we couldn't hear each other for the wind.

We're now friends again and are still on land on the opposite shore to where we started this morning.
It's Wednesday, and we need to be back at the car by Friday lunchtime at the very latest. We've had another big route discussion, and managed to check the weather forecast.

We've decided to have a break from paddling, and either do an evening paddle today if the wind drops, or camp here and set out (very) early tomorrow. Hopefully in the direction of Glenfinnan, but if the wind hasn't done what the weather forecast says it's supposed to, then back to Shiel bridge to get a lift.
We both really want to complete the original planned circular trip but will have to go for Plan B if the wind doesn't drop.

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Location:Loch Shiel

A little otter

Tuesday 21st June 2011

I'm actually writing this a day late. Tuesday 21st June was such a long day that by the time I had a chance to do a blog I was too tired.

We woke up in a tent like an oven and got out at about 8.30am to find the sun blazing. There were a few clouds lurking but it looked like a nice day. We even put sun block on first thing, and I wore a vest top!

By the time we'd had breakfast and packed all our gear up, the clouds were looking a lot more threatening, so much so that we decided to put our waterproofs on as a precaution.

We had a look round the burial ground island, on which stood a creepy skeleton tomb, and a modest memorial to no other than Ronald Macdonald. We had some junk food in the form of a bag of crisps and a Rocky bar as our way of showing our respects, then went on our way.

It started raining soon after that. Not quite as badly as at Loch Lomond but when you're in an open boat in the middle of a loch it seems pretty wet.
The one thing I do like about the rain is that all the wildlife that lives nearby seems to come out. You get loads of swallows and martins swooping around catching flies and sometimes something even more exciting. More on this shortly.

We made it down to the bottom of the loch where the river starts. It was belting down with rain, just in time for lunch. We stopped under Shiel bridge, which was the only shelter for miles around, and had macaroni cheese and some sort of long life indestructible sausage thing. There was a cute fluffy grey bird which kept scuttling around but the lunch spot didn't seem to have a lot else going for it.
Just as we were about to leave, Claire spotted something splashing about in the water just downstream. It turned out to be an otter frolicking! I did think it was an anaconda for a moment but that was when I'd only seen the tail. We couldn't get any closer for fear of scaring it away and after a while it swam off.

We paddled back up the loch towards Glenfinnan, as per yesterday's agreed route. The rain was still bad, and we were now paddling into the wind which introduced a whole new level of wetness.
The rest of the trip was fairly uneventful, apart from running aground right in the middle of the loch. We had to use our paddles to push off the bottom, which almost ended in disaster when I let go of mine and it was left stuck in the mud, gradually sinking into the lake. We just about managed to retrieve it before it disappeared.

The last leg of the paddle was very tough going. As we rounded the corner after the burial island, the wind seemed to double in strength and we struggled to make any progress. I was quite scared.
We finally made it to land, and camped the same place as the previous night.
We were both exhausted, grumpy and somewhat tetchy. And of course cold and damp where the water had sneaked in around our sleeves and collars.
We managed to get The Tarp up, made more difficult by the fact that we ripped it and had to tape it up with duck tape. Claire pitched the tent and as she seemed slightly more wet and grumpy, I sent her inside the tent to make it all cosy while I stayed outside and sorted all our kit out.
The midges were like flying devils but our geeky head net hats worked a treat.

Two cups of tea, a Flake, and a tuna and pasta concoction later, we were feeling a lot better, inside the tent in our sleeping bags, listening to the wind and rain outside.


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Location:Loch Shiel

Girls Day Out

Monday 20th June 2011

Another day of the weather being kind to us today. Although I could hear rain on the tent when I woke up, it turned out to be bone dry outside and I can only assume it was some midges dive bombing the tent.

I was a bit peeved to find that I had managed to sunburn my face yesterday. I've put some sun block on today but it was a bit late really. Claire keeps laughing at me but I don't think she's realised that her nose is bright red too in between the freckles.

I had been looking forward to blogging about the SteriPen. This is a magic wand type device that you switch on, dip into a mug or bottle of water and it shines a magic light into the water that kills all the bad stuff. Unfortunately, SteriPen's batteries ran out this morning so I'm unable to rave about how wonderful it is in today's blog.
Luckily, Claire had packed for all eventualities and produced two little bottles of water sterilising solution which work just as well. They do make the water taste disgusting, and we wish we hadn't audited out the fruit cordial when packing the food.

We were still paddling into the wind for most of the day although it wasn't as strong as yesterday. We spotted a beach to stop for elevenses, only to find that there was a canoe already there! We felt a bit bad gatecrashing but stopped anyway, at the other end of the beach.
This was the first other boat we'd seen since starting the trip, except a daily sightseeing boat.
After a while a woman came over and said hello, she was doing a one way trip the opposite way to us, all on her own! Her boyfriend had gone mountain biking so she'd decided to go wild camping in the canoe.
We swapped a few tips on camp sites etc. and she paddled off with the wind behind her.

Interesting that the only other canoeist we've seen so far has also been a girl.

We paddled on to quite a big beach just past a tiny village called Polloch. Apparently Polloch is not pronounced quite how it looks, it's "Poll-och". Sounds like people called Shufflebottom pronouncing it Shuffle-botham to me.
We haven't got as far as the burial ground island yet. We've decided to do that tomorrow. We had a little route based discussion over lunch. We weren't quite sure at the start of the trip whether it was going to be a return trip round the loch, or a one way trip including the river and part of the sea loch at the end. Both have their pros and cons, but we've decided to go with the return trip. We think it will be better for camping and we don't know much about the river and sea section, and are a bit nervous of falling in.

After lunch, it was bath time, and Claire was very nearly caught naked by two men fishing in a motor boat that was so quiet I think it was designed for sneaking up on campers. I was more cautious with my exposure during my wash.

We're having another camp fire today by the shore. I don't think we'll stick it out as long as last night as it is already quite chilly and it's only 8pm.
We've got no phone signal here so can't check the weather forecast. Last time we checked it was meant to be raining tomorrow.

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Location:Loch Shiel

Some sun at last

We woke up this morning to an unfamiliar brightness coming from outside. We were amazed to find that not only was it no longer raining, but the sun was shining brightly and the sky was blue. The view from Alison's was amazing, beats Wolstanton Marsh any day.

After getting off to a flying start with getting our kit organised, we came slightly unstuck when we got to the food. We've got enough in the boat to feed us for months, and just as much left in the car. It took ages and theres definitely room for improvement next time.

We made it to our start point by about 12 noon, and the sun was still shining! We started out from the Glenfinnan Hotel which is one of the most Scottish places I've ever been to, complete with stags heads and paintings of Bonnie Prince Charlie on the wall.
We packed the canoe up and tentatively did a test launch to see if it sank. It didn't, and in fact was less wobbly than our last outing, although that may have been because last time Claire's mum was on board and was somewhat fidgety.

We had a tough first hour or two as the wind seemed determined to keep us in one place in the middle of the loch. We spotted a beach for a lunch break but it took us ages to get there. It was worth it though. One of the best views from a picnic site ever, and the best cup of tea for a long while made with some proper Scottish spring water.

We paddled on for another couple of hours after a lazy lunch and have found another beach to camp on about a third of the way along the loch. We've spent the evening by the shore eating freshly made bread from the camp fire and watching the clouds gathering round the mountain tops. The midges have kept away as they don't like the fire.

I'm glad Claire's had a chance to see what Scotland looks like when the sun's out.

Tomorrow we are planning on an early morning swim in the loch to wake us up. Claire also wants to visit an ancient burial ground on an island, which is fine by me just so long as she doesn't get any silly ideas about camping there.

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Location:Loch Shiel

Finally out on the water

Saturday 18th June 2011

The remainder of last night was fairly uneventful, barring Claire's discovery of a dead cygnet by the loch (made even worse by the fact that she was hoping to rescue an abandoned one), and our journey back from the pub which involved scaling a barbed wire fence and running the gauntlet to get past the remainder of the swan family. Claire did call me a chicken for hiding behind her, but I'm not a chicken, they were swans!

We got back to the tent and were a bit worried about the amount of water around (and possibly under?) it but just went to bed anyway.

This morning we awoke to find that the moat surrounding the tent had shrunk considerably. The rain had all but stopped and we managed to take the tent down while it was only slightly damp. It still wasn't raining so we decided to chance the long awaited paddle on Loch Lomond. And much to our amazement it didn't really start raining until we got back to the car!

We spotted quite a few tents on the islands on the loch and were a bit sad that we hadn't camped there instead. Especially after my encounter with some Scottish chavs in the shower block earlier in the day. It would have been a long trip to the pub from the islands though.
Claire commented on how much nicer Scotland is than the Lake District. I don't think it's nicer really, just bigger (in many ways) and obviously much wetter. But I couldn't wait for her to see the Highlands as Loch Lomond is nothing in comparison.

The journey that was supposed to take us 1 hour 59 minutes actually took nearly 3 and a half hours, and there weren't even any traffic jams. I can only assume that route on google maps was test driven by Lewis Hamilton or one of his friends.

We are staying tonight with my cousin Alison and her family on the shores of Loch Ailort. We have brought the midges with us although I think there may have been a few here already. We've pitched our tent on the edge of a small precipice so it's to be hoped I don't get up to any of my old tricks and go sleep walking.

We've been down to the shore otter spotting, and although the otters were hiding from us we did spot 6 wild deer running off, a family of Shelducks and loads of other unidentified sea birds.

Tomorrow we're starting our wild canoe camping trip on Loch Shiel so are hoping the rain will try and keep itself to a minimum. I've made Claire do a full food audit with me and I'm satisfied we've got enough to last us about 2 weeks never mind a few days.

iPad will be coming with us for the purposes of blog writing but I expect there will have to be a bulk posting when we get back to civilisation.

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Location:Up North

Scottish Rain

Friday 17th June 2011

We travelled up here yesterday. We had been pretty disorganised (OK, I had been pretty disorganised, Claire had spent the previous week being the very definition of organised, making lists and piling ever growing heaps of holiday equipment around the house). Anyway, we had to do a lot of the packing in the morning so didn't set off till after lunch.

The journey was pretty uneventful. The weather was ok, and we passed a train and a building in the slow lane of the motorway and a rocket going the other way. Yes, a rocket like NASA launch into space, only a tiny bit smaller.

We arrived at our first night's campsite at a place called Luss which is right on the (bonnie) banks of Loch Lomond. As per usual, there are rather too many rules and regulations for our liking, and a couple of grumpy camp site wardens. For example, you have to be "as quiet as church mice" at night and you're not allowed to use the toilets between 10.30am and 11.30pm. I think that's a typo on their part, but even so...

Last night was lovely. We set up camp, had some hot dogs, and as there didn't seem to be an off licence open for miles went to the nearby hotel bar. Plus, last time I stayed here I got ID'd at the off licence behind a load of ASBO kids, so I was a bit nervous. I should point out that I was about 29 at the time. The bar also provided a refuge from the midges which were drifting around in clouds waiting to attack. We had a couple of beers watching the moon rise and cast its reflection over the loch. All to a soundtrack of bagpipes and a backdrop of hairy Scotsmen in kilts attending a wedding reception.
We returned to the tent looking forward to a day out on the loch the next day.

As soon as we got out of the tent this morning it started raining and it hasn't stopped since. Not even for a moment. And when I say raining, I mean proper Scottish rain that comes from quite innocent looking clouds but soaks you in an instant.
Our tent is quite a small tent so this is not good weather for us. We don't have a giant porch to cook breakfast or sit in armchairs in. Fortunately, Claire had brought The Tarp with us, which, once erected, prompted quite a lot of Tarp envy amongst our fellow campers. Even the ones with porches! Unfortunately, the midges also seemed quite keen on the shelter offered by The Tarp, but they were soon frightened off with some anti midge incense stuff.

It is now 4pm and the rain has still not eased off enough for us to venture out onto the water. We have been to the local (ish) Go Outdoors store, and although I could tell it pained Claire to do it, bought some things which we'd forgotten. We're now sat in the tent listening to the rain on the canvas and willing it to stop.
It came as no surprise to me that Loch Lomond is the largest inland lake in Britain. I'm sure it could supply the whole of Europe with water at this rate.

We've had dinner and returned to the bar again. The rain actually stopped for almost an hour but now it has started again. We had a problem with some ducks at dinner time. We had a little barbecue, and a pack of 5 particularly menacing ducks turned up and tried to gate crash. One of them was only stopped from stealing food from the grill by Claire throwing a large bag of rubbish at it. Every other tactic we tried they thought was an invitation.

We are optimistic about the weather improving tomorrow. That's what the met office seem to think anyway, so fingers crossed.

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Location:Loch Lomond